Shoe and method of making the same



' Jan. 17, 1933. A, BRADBURY 1,894,291

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Dec. 24, 1929 Patented Jan. 17, 1933 UNITED #s rec PATENT :O'FFIJCE ALBERT w. BRADBIOIRY, or CLIFTONDALE, MASSACHUSETTS, Assrenoa ro- UNITED SHOE IVIAGHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW .JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY SHOE DiMETHOD OF MAKING "THE SAME Application nled 'December 24,1929. Serial No. 416,228.

This invention relates to shoesand to :meth ods of making them, and particularly to methods ofmaking shoes in which the welt and upper areattached together before the upper is-lasted,= and to shoes so'made which are known inthe art as prewelt shoes.

-A usual practice in the manufacture of prewelt shoes has been, first, to sew together the margin ofthe upper and-a welt strip, and then to assemble the upper upon a last having an insole thereon. -Cement'waszusually.ap-

plied to the lining, tothe inner faceof the upper orto theinsole,-or. both,-and the margin of the upper with the/welt, at thesides of the shoe from tipline to .breastlinewas worked over the insole bottom and secured in lasted position, while thecement was setting, by lasting tacks whichaare left upstanding so that they can be readily withdrawn. Some times the cement was omitted and the drying out of the tempered upper upon the last was .relieduponto cause the upper toretain the s-hapeof the last. The toe; portionwas usual- =ly lasted on: a bed machine or by-me'ans of a wire loop and held in lasted position by a toe binding wire. Theheel-seat portion ofthe upper whether provided with a'welt or'not, was usually lasted-in-and secured by permanent tacks to the insole. After the cement had-set andthe .upperhad takenithe shape of the. last, the temporary tacks and the binding wirewere removed anda-n outsole applied and attached to the welt, a filler having previously been placedbetween theinsole and 2' outsole.

In such shoes the-insole, forward of'the I breast line, was either entirely unsecured to the upper or was held thereto only by cement,

which could not be relied upon under all conditions to secure the insole-in placethro-ughand toprovide aprewelt shoe having these desirable characteristics.

Accordingly the present invention consists inassembling upon a last, having an unlipped insole thereon, an upper having a welt at 1355 tached-thereto, lasting'the upper over the ,bottom of the insole, and securing the upper permanently in lasted position by fastenings which extend through the upper or welt, or both, and only part way through the-insolef o the illustrated fastenings being curved in the body of the insole with their ends directed toward the outer face of the insole,- for'example, by staples which extend through the welt and upper and are curved in the body of the in-Z65 sole toward-its outer face without penetrating its inner surface. The unlipped insole employed ispreferably simply died outor rounded to the shape of the last bottom and thus has all ofits surfaces intact and its in- "f0 ner and outer faces substantially smooth, flat and parallel. As illustrated, the sides of the shoe only are lasted in this manner, it being generally preferable to last the ends of the shoe by other means. It is to be understood,' 7'=5 however, that the present invention is not limited to use at the sides of the shoe.

In another :aspect the invention comprises a shoe of the prewelt type in which therup-v per materials at the sides of the shoe are. per- 90 -manently secured to an unlipped insole by metallic fastenings which do not penetrate the inner face of the insole.

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of apparatus for 8'5 practlslng the invention;

Fig. 2-is a view, partly insection, illustrating the working of the upperand welt into lasted position and the insertion of a curved staple that 'does not, penetrate the inner face of the insole; and

Fig. 3 is a perspective-view of a shoe after the presentmethod has been practised-in lasting the sides. e a In the practice of my improvedmethod of 1 making prewelt shoes in which'the welt, up-

,per andan unlipped-insole are securedto- ;gether, by metallic fastenings which do not penetrate the. inner face of the insole, anupa per l0 is prepared in the: usual manner and a 2100 welt 12 attached thereto, preferably by a seam 14 sewed through the welt and upper. As illustrated, the welt is laid flush with the edge of the upper, and the seam 14 extends through the welt and upper near the inneredge of the welt. It is to be understood as within the invention, however, to allow eitherthe welt or upper to extend inwardly beyond the other so that either the welt or the upper only may be stapled to the insole. The lining may extend beyond the upper also for the same purpose. welt 12 is assembled upon a last 16 to which is secured an intact, unlipped insole 18; By means of a member 20 adapted to engage the shoe in the welt crease the upper and welt are worked over the insole 18 by pressure of the shoe against the member 20. Then a staple 28 is inserted through the welt and upper and into the body of the insole 18 in such a manner that the legs of the staple curve inwardly and are anchored in the body of the insole without penetrating its inner face. As illustrated, the amount that the welt and upper can be worked over the shoe bottom by pres sure against the member 20 is limited by a shoe edge engaging member 24: and to assist in positioning the shoe a shoe bottom rest 26 is provided. The lasting of the upper is thus carried on along each side of the shoe, as illustrated in Fig. 8. Although it is within the invention to employ staples in this manner for securing the upper in lasted position at the toe and heel portions if desired, it is usual and generally preferable to employ end embracing wipers or a wire loop for lasting in the toe portions of the upper and to secure the upper by tacks. The heel portion may be lasted in any usual manner whether or not the welt extends around the periphery of the heel-seat and may be secured by permanent tacks.

For inserting the staples it is preferable to employ a machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,815,295, granted July 21, 1931, in the name of George Goddu, to which reference may be had for a complete disclosure of the machine. It is sufficient, for the purpose of this invention, to explain that the machine forms a staple 28 of fine wire about an inside former 30 (Fig. 2) in a plane above that in which a driver 32 acts. The formed staple is transferred by a staple transferring device 34 into the plane 'of the driver 32 and in front of the driver. The driver is then operated to drive the staple. legs of the staple engage deflectors 36 which cause the ends of the staple legs to enter the upper materials in a direction nearly perpendicular to the plane of the welt and overlasted portion of the upper but curved slightly inwardly. As the driving operation continues and the legs of the staple enter the body of the insole, they curve inwardly The upper 10 with its attached;

During the driving operation the until they reach a point preferably short of penetration of the inner face of theinsole and then curve upwardly and outwardly of the shoe toward the outer face of the insole through whichthey entered. The legs of the staple 28 are thus anchored in the body of the unlipped insole 18 without penetrating its inner face and are so formed and located that the pull of the lasted upper tends to move them further in the direction in which they were driven, that is, to turnthem about the axis of curvature of their legs inthe same direction in which their legs were deflected or curved in the driving operation. Thus the staples maintain firm hold on theupper and welt by in the insole.

- After the lasting of the ends of the shoe in any suitable manner, a filler l0 is inserted and an outsole attached to the welt, usually by stitches. If desired, the filler 40 may, as indicated in Fig.2, form an integral part of the insole or it may be attached tothe insole prior to or after the lasting operation.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in the methods of making shoes which consists in 'providing a welted upper comprising an upper to which a Welt has been attached, assembling the welted upper and an unlipped, unchanneled insole upon a last, exerting a force applied in the crease between the Welt and the upper to work the welted upper over the sides of the insole, fastening thev side portions of the welted upper to the side portions of'the insole by fastening means clenched in the interior of the insole without penetrating the inner face thereof, thus leaving the toe portion and theheel-seat portion of the upper unlasted, and subsequently lasting the toeand heel-seat portions and completing the manufacture of the shoe.

2. A shoe having a welted upper comprising a welt and an upper secured together by a seam, an unlipped, unchanneled insole, and staples extending through the welted upper but not through the insole along the opposite sides of the shoe,the staples being clenched in the body ofthe insole without penetrating the inner face thereof, the lasted-over toe portion and heel-seat portion of the welted upper being free from staples.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

ALBERT W. BRADBURY.

the security of their anchorage 

